The Re-Emergence of the Pinstripe Suit

The pinstripe suit synonymous with bankers is experienceing a rennaissance. Everyone from the Wall Street powerhouse to the Brooklyn graphic design wiz can adopt this suit. Style-wise, vertical stripes can work on a variety of people since the lines create a slimming effect. But for taller people for example, the stripes can end up making you look longer and lankier than usual, perhaps negatively changing the silhouette. For slimmer builds, it can make you look too slim. It should also be noted that mid to closer stripes are more fashionable right now versus wider stripes.

The pinstripe suit synonymous with bankers is experienceing a rennaissance. Everyone from the Wall Street powerhouse to the Brooklyn graphic design wiz can adopt this suit. Style-wise, vertical stripes can work on a variety of people since the lines create a slimming effect. But for taller people for example, the stripes can end up making you look longer and lankier than usual, perhaps negatively changing the silhouette. For slimmer builds, it can make you look too slim. It should also be noted that mid to closer stripes are more fashionable right now versus wider stripes.

Nano technology makes this luxury cloth both crease resistant and water / stain resistant.

As for the stripes themselves, it's important to understand how width influences the look. While thin stripes slim, wider stripes create a louder look that can actually add weight to your figure. Contact your design consultant to see what pattern suits you best.

The pinstripe suit is still a classic, but has evolved into a modern day "must have" suit for Spring Summer 2017. 

Lightweight VS. Tropical Wool - The Argument For Wool In The Summer.

What is lightweight wool? All tropical wool is lightweight, but not all lightweight wool is tropical wool. Wool is able to be woven less densely than cotton and still look professional. Traits associated with a good tropical wool usually include worsted yarns, a porous weave (for airflow), and perhaps a degree of wrinkle-resistance (as thinner fabric wrinkles while thicker fabric rumples). An excellent option for tropical use is a lightweight fresco.

Tropical wool has the comfort of linen but without the wrinkles. The comfort of linen is derived in most part because it absorbs sweat. At the same time most linen jacketings do not have weave porosity to the same degree as a lightweight fresco.

Keep Cool This Summer With Linen

Sometimes used as currency in ancient Egypt, linen has a long history as a go-to luxury cloth for Summer. Egyptian mummies were wrapped in linen as a symbol of light and purity, and as a display of wealth. 

Sometimes used as currency in ancient Egypt, linen has a long history as a go-to luxury cloth for Summer. Egyptian mummies were wrapped in linen as a symbol of light and purity, and as a display of wealth. 

Advantages of Linen

  1.  Linen clothes feel themselves 3°-4°C below that of silk or cotton-wearing people. It is also noticed that those wearing linen perspire 1.5 times less than when those dressed in cotton clothes and even less than those dressed in clothes from other materials.
  2.  Linen weave reflects heat better, too. This means linen suits, jackets, trousers and shirts have good “shading” properties as well and again – the wearer of linen clothing feels cooler.
  3. Linen is a good conductor of heat. Heat conductivity refers to the extent to which heat can be conveyed through the fabric. As linen quickly allows the heat to escape, it further improves cooling. It is claimed, that heat conductivity of linen is five times higher than wool and eighteen times higher than silk.
  4. Linen is highly absorbent. Your linen garment feels cool to the touch and linen fabric will quickly remove perspiration from the skin. Linen is capable of absorbing moisture and then and quickly yielding it again. Because of its molecular structure linen cloth can absorb as much as 1/5 of its weight before giving a feeling of being damp or wet. In other words – your linen shirt will absorb lots of perspiration and it is unlikely it will ever feel clammy – as water evaporates off linen as quickly as off the surface puddle. So, water is both absorbed and evaporated quickly. The result is your linen dress acting like an excellent cooling system.

How Masciangelo Shoes Are Made

The skilled craftsmen at our workshop in Tuscanny use over 200 steps to create the perfect shoe. Read on to learn how we make our shoes.

STEP 1 - DESIGN - The creation of a new piece of footwear is the outcome of a development process that first and foremost involves the figure of the designer, whose task is to stay one step ahead of popular tastes and trends.The designer establishes and oversees the style of the collections, shapes and determines the look of the footwear, and works to attain the very best results from the skill of the individual craftspeople who carry out the processes that go into a quality shoe. The creative team at Masciangelo assesses, interprets and develops all the ideas that come together to create footwear of superlative quality

STEP 1 - DESIGN - The creation of a new piece of footwear is the outcome of a development process that first and foremost involves the figure of the designer, whose task is to stay one step ahead of popular tastes and trends.The designer establishes and oversees the style of the collections, shapes and determines the look of the footwear, and works to attain the very best results from the skill of the individual craftspeople who carry out the processes that go into a quality shoe. The creative team at Masciangelo assesses, interprets and develops all the ideas that come together to create footwear of superlative quality

STEP 2 - CUTTING THE VAMP - The vamp, or upper, is the top part of a shoe, consisting in a moulded piece that is sewn to the sole. Cutting (or “clicking”) the vamp is a task that only a true expert who is deeply familiar with leather can perform with the necessary care, using only the finest part of the hide. During the operation, the cutter must follow the “grain”, i.e., the texture of the leather, to make the shoes as supple and durable as possible. Selecting the best sections of leather also entails a greater degree of waste, and thus higher production costs. 

STEP 2 - CUTTING THE VAMP - The vamp, or upper, is the top part of a shoe, consisting in a moulded piece that is sewn to the sole. Cutting (or “clicking”) the vamp is a task that only a true expert who is deeply familiar with leather can perform with the necessary care, using only the finest part of the hide. During the operation, the cutter must follow the “grain”, i.e., the texture of the leather, to make the shoes as supple and durable as possible. Selecting the best sections of leather also entails a greater degree of waste, and thus higher production costs. 

STEP 3 - CLOSING - Closing is the step of sewing together the various components that make up the vamp and its lining. The individual pieces are first glued together, making it possible to flatten out the overlaid sections before sewing. The closing process also allows reinforcements, made of leather or other materials, to be inserted into the upper at the points subject to the greatest stress, to make the shoe sturdy and comfortable. This long, expensive process is what sets high-quality shoes apart, giving them a harmonious, elegant, perfectly finished look.

STEP 3 - CLOSING - Closing is the step of sewing together the various components that make up the vamp and its lining. The individual pieces are first glued together, making it possible to flatten out the overlaid sections before sewing. The closing process also allows reinforcements, made of leather or other materials, to be inserted into the upper at the points subject to the greatest stress, to make the shoe sturdy and comfortable. This long, expensive process is what sets high-quality shoes apart, giving them a harmonious, elegant, perfectly finished look.

STEP 4 - LASTING -  Lasting and making is the complex process of putting together the individual components of the shoe, and involves a series of steps aimed at making the leather fit perfectly to the last. In lasting, the upper is joined first to the insole and then to the sole, a process we will examine below. Masciangelo uses only leather or natural skin insoles to ensure maximum comfort for your feet. Once assembled, the shoe moves on to the finishing stage.

STEP 4 - LASTING -  Lasting and making is the complex process of putting together the individual components of the shoe, and involves a series of steps aimed at making the leather fit perfectly to the last. In lasting, the upper is joined first to the insole and then to the sole, a process we will examine below. Masciangelo uses only leather or natural skin insoles to ensure maximum comfort for your feet. Once assembled, the shoe moves on to the finishing stage.

STEP 5 - PREPERATION FOR ATTACHING THE SOLE - Preparation for attaching the sole Once the upper is mounted on the last and joined to the insole, the part that will house the sole is roughened to allow for a stronger bond. Moreover, to create a uniform surface of contact between the upper and the sole, a cork lining is inserted that not only allows the foot to breathe, but prevents the formation of moisture and makes the shoe feel softer and more flexible when walking

STEP 5 - PREPERATION FOR ATTACHING THE SOLE - Preparation for attaching the sole Once the upper is mounted on the last and joined to the insole, the part that will house the sole is roughened to allow for a stronger bond. Moreover, to create a uniform surface of contact between the upper and the sole, a cork lining is inserted that not only allows the foot to breathe, but prevents the formation of moisture and makes the shoe feel softer and more flexible when walking

STEP 6 - ATTACHING THE SOLE - Application of the sole For outstanding flexibility and greater durability, the soles of Fratelli Borgioli shoes are sewn to the uppers. This is a detail you will find only on high-quality or custom-made shoes.

STEP 6 - ATTACHING THE SOLE - Application of the sole For outstanding flexibility and greater durability, the soles of Fratelli Borgioli shoes are sewn to the uppers. This is a detail you will find only on high-quality or custom-made shoes.

STEP 7 - FINISHING THE SOLE - Finishing consists in a series of operations that are carried out at the end of the production cycle. In this process, both the edges and underside of the sole are hand-finished using all-natural stains and waxes. This operation is a lengthy one, between brushing and staining with one or two pigments, but gives the shoe perfect breathability, flexibility and elegance. All of our soles are made of natural leather.

STEP 7 - FINISHING THE SOLE - Finishing consists in a series of operations that are carried out at the end of the production cycle. In this process, both the edges and underside of the sole are hand-finished using all-natural stains and waxes. This operation is a lengthy one, between brushing and staining with one or two pigments, but gives the shoe perfect breathability, flexibility and elegance. All of our soles are made of natural leather.

STEP 8 - FINISHING THE UPPER - The final operation, and perhaps the most important one, is finishing the upper. In order to restore the original characteristics of the leather (shine, softness, etc.) that are inevitably altered in making the shoe, the upper is washed with special, neutral detergents and then treated with waxes and natural creams. There are hundreds of kinds of leather, and many different processes for finishing it. Hand-aged shoes require an elaborate finishing process that makes them elegant, sophisticated, and uniquely appealing. The leather can be bleached in certain spots to create a motif along the seams, or for mottled or two-tone effects, fading from black to brown, etc. If you happened to see this stage, you’d find yourself entranced by the skill of our artisans, whose expert hands give each of our shoes its own unique personality.

STEP 8 - FINISHING THE UPPER - The final operation, and perhaps the most important one, is finishing the upper. In order to restore the original characteristics of the leather (shine, softness, etc.) that are inevitably altered in making the shoe, the upper is washed with special, neutral detergents and then treated with waxes and natural creams. There are hundreds of kinds of leather, and many different processes for finishing it. Hand-aged shoes require an elaborate finishing process that makes them elegant, sophisticated, and uniquely appealing. The leather can be bleached in certain spots to create a motif along the seams, or for mottled or two-tone effects, fading from black to brown, etc. If you happened to see this stage, you’d find yourself entranced by the skill of our artisans, whose expert hands give each of our shoes its own unique personality.

Posted on May 5, 2017 .

Best of Both Worlds: Hidden Button Down Shirt Collar

The hidden button down collar is a covert cousin to the button down collar. Why covert? Because the hidden button down collar employs hidden button loops under the collar instead of having the buttons go through the collar itself. On the underside of the collar, you will find a loop to which the button is fastened (see picture below). The end result is a streamlined button-less profile, but with the security of a buttoned collar. Why choose a hidden button down shirt collar? The answer is a matter of personal choice. Some people do not like two buttons protruding from their collar, while others like the simplicity and utility balanced with classic collar aesthetics.  If you are frustrated with a collar that does not sit properly and seek a streamline-look, then you should consider a hidden button down collar dress shirt. Although it is best to always wear a tie when wearing a suit, this is perfect if you tend to wear a suit without a tie. By doing so you can be assured that your collar will look crisp at all times without shirt collar stays or a protruding button (see picture below).

The hidden button down collar is a covert cousin to the button down collar.

Why covert?

Because the hidden button down collar employs hidden button loops under the collar instead of having the buttons go through the collar itself.

On the underside of the collar, you will find a loop to which the button is fastened (see picture below).

The end result is a streamlined button-less profile, but with the security of a buttoned collar.

Why choose a hidden button down shirt collar?

The answer is a matter of personal choice. Some people do not like two buttons protruding from their collar, while others like the simplicity and utility balanced with classic collar aesthetics.  If you are frustrated with a collar that does not sit properly and seek a streamline-look, then you should consider a hidden button down collar dress shirt.

Although it is best to always wear a tie when wearing a suit, this is perfect if you tend to wear a suit without a tie.

By doing so you can be assured that your collar will look crisp at all times without shirt collar stays or a protruding button (see picture below).

Posted on April 28, 2017 .

100% Organic Cotton Shirts by Masciangelo

Improve your health and well being with our latest range of shirts made with cotton that has been harvested without the use of any insecticides and pesticides.

 

Benefits

  1. Health & Wellbeing - The kind of clothes you wear can impact your physical and mental health and wellbeing. The various chemicals like insecticides and pesticides remain trapped in the fibre and is sometimes absorbed into your bloodstream causing irritated skin, rashes and even headaches and dizziness.
  2. Allergies - There is no chemical retention from organic cotton clothing; thus, people with allergies or with specific chemical sensitivity will greatly benefit from using organic cotton in clothing fabric. It feels better on your skin too even if you are not suffering from allergies or chemical sensitivities. In addition, most of those who are loyal to organic cotton clothes swear that it smells better than the usual cotton types.
  3. Environment - You might be surprised to know that conventional cotton accounts for nearly 25% of the insecticides and 10% of the pesticides used throughout the world, although is it grown on only 3% of the total cultivated area. The excessive use of chemicals in conventional cotton production has led to a great deal of environmental pollution. Organic cotton is grown using organic means without the use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, and insecticides, therefore helping to improve the quality of the land, prevent water contamination, and conserve biodiversity.

Building on an extensive range of traditional designs in twisted and double twisted fabrics, this collection showcases a range of fabrics made of 100% organic fibre that are certified by the Global Organic Textile Standard to ensure that the entire product from harvesting of the cotton to labeling is all completely organic.

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Posted on April 7, 2017 .

Why You Should Only Use Natural Fibres (And The Consequences of Wearing Synthetic Fibres)

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We are proud to offer a range of fabrics made with the following natural fibres. 

Bamboo

Bamboo

Cotton

Cotton

Cashmere

Cashmere

Hemp

Hemp

Wool

Wool

Linen

Linen

Mohair

Mohair

Vicuna

Vicuna

Silk

Silk

Benefits

  • Breathability - The average person looses about 4 cups of pespiration in a day and so it is vital that the clothing we wear is able to breathe. Natural fibre textiles absorb perspiration and release it into the air, a process called "wicking" that creates natural ventilation. Because of their more compact molecular structure, synthetic fibres cannot capture air and "breathe" in the same way. The "breathability" of natural fibre textiles makes their wearers less prone to skin rashes, itching and allergies often caused by synthetics. 
  • Natural Insulator - The bends, or crimp, in natural fibres like wool trap pockets of air which act as insulators against both cold and heat – Bedouins wear thin wool to keep them cool. Since natural fibres can absorb liquids, natural fibers efficiently absorb and disperse water lost through perspiration during the day.
  • Long Lasting - Synthetic fabric begins to break down much more quickly, especially with frequent washing. I’ve noticed that the fabric begins to “pill” – the fabric breaks down and gets fuzzy. With proper care and maintanance, natural fabric can last a lot longer and is a much better investment.
  • Non-Toxic - When it comes to body care products and cosmetics, we know that 60% of what we put on our skin is absorbed into the bloodstream. If clothes are treated with chemicals, and then we put the clothes on our skin, will our skin absorb some of the chemicals? Synthetic fabrics use a lot of dangerous chemicals that may eventually be absorbed into our bloodstream.
  • Sustainable - Natural fibres are a renewable resource, par excellence – they have been renewed by nature and human ingenuity for millennia. They are also carbon neutral: they absorb the same amount of carbon dioxide they produce. During processing, they generate mainly organic wastes and leave residues that can be used to generate electricity or make ecological housing material. And, at the end of their life cycle, they are 100% biodegradable.

Hemp - The Environmental Super-Fibre

Hemp fabric or hemp textiles are made from cannabis sativa fiber or industrial hemp. The usage of hemp fiber or cannabis sativa fiber as materials for clothing is not something new. Hemp fiber has been used thousands of years and in fact materials made from hemp were discovered in tombs dating back to 8,000 BC. Hemp was used in varieties of applications in early civilizations in Asia, Middle East and China. Until the 1920's, 80% of clothing was made from hemp textiles. Hemp can be grown with little or no chemical fertilizers, herbicides or pesticides. Nothing is wasted in the production process: seeds are used to make oil and food supplements, while the stalks are used for fiber. Hemp also produces more fiber per acre than trees, and can be renewed two to three times per year making it extremely Eco friendly. 

Advantages of Hemp Fabric

  • Strong: Hemp's’ tensile strength is eight times that of cotton fibre which accounts for its historical use in sails and rope for the British and American Navies. It is an exceptionally durable and strong Eco friendly fabric
  • Weather Resistant: UV and mold-resistant, hemp is excellent for outdoor wear. Like linen and cotton, hemp is a cool choice for summer. It breathes well. It is recommended for warm, humid climates as the fabric resists mildew and absorbs moisture
  • Comfortable: Hemp fiber is actually more porous and breathable than cotton
  • Versatile: Hemp has the look of classic linen and can have the feel (depending upon fabric blend) of your favorite flannel. Hemp materials will also soften with age and with each cleaning
  • Easy on the Environment: Hemp creates one of the most Eco friendly fabrics in the world. Hemp requires no pesticides, crowds out weeds without herbicides, controls erosion of the topsoil, and produces oxygen. It is a renewable resource that can be cultivated in as little as 100 days
  • Hypo-allergenic: Fabrics made from hemp are hypo-allergenic and non-irritating to the skin. Current tests indicate that hemp is able to kill staph and other bacteria that come in contact with its surface

Sictess Fabric Collection-Made From The Best Cotton In The World

The collection includes fabrics made with an incredibly fine yarn count of up to 300/2 made with the best cotton in the world - extra long staple Egyptian Giza 45 cotton. This fabric has the feel and touch of silk while still maintaining the fresh feel of cotton. The range includes Poplins, Twills, Oxfords, Voiles, Panamas, Zephirs as well as Jacquards. 

sictess.jpg

The collection includes fabrics made with an incredibly fine yarn count of up to 300/2 made with the best cotton in the world (Pictured below) - extra long staple Egyptian Giza 45 cotton. This fabric has the feel and touch of silk while still maintaining the fresh feel of cotton. The range includes Poplins, Twills, Oxfords, Voiles, Panamas, Zephirs as well as Jacquards. 

S.I.C.TESS has always been a specialist on open wave fabrics, that has been Italy’s summer choice in shirting since the beginning of the last century. Cellostar with its fine Honeycomb structure, and Cellulare 15, similar but with a wider construction, are the classic shirts of the Neapolitan elegance. Winter requires softer and warmer fabrics, and the flannels made of 120/2 Twills smoothly brushed, Cashpima a mixture of cotton and cashmere, and the New Cashmere a unique 100% cashmere shirting weight, are definitely the best choice for the discerning gentleman.

Posted on February 3, 2017 .