The Sport Shirt: The Casual Alternative to More Conservatively Formal Button-Downs, and How to Keep your Collar from Flopping

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Sport shirts tend to be more bold, possibly with patterns. They will have more detailed styling as well such as pockets, plackets, contrast stitching, button down collars, different size collars and more. 

Is the collar on your shirt looking like a plant that needs to be watered?
We suggest going 1/2 - 1 inch smaller on your casual dress shirt neck size. This will help keep the collar up and look more crisp. No more flop! A button or hidden button down will also help

Posted on March 11, 2018 .

Spring is Only Weeks Away...Bring on the Chambray!

Chambray, a double-ply cotton fabric with a tight weave, is similar to denim in that it has a white filler thread woven in with a colored background thread.

Unlike denim's twill weave, chambray has a plain weave, so it's smoother and lighter in weight.


The comfort, style, and flexibility of Chambray is a huge key to its success. Chambray is lightweight and soft which makes it an excellent choice for corporate and casual wear. 

This is the perfect fabric for your spring and summer wardrobe.

Posted on March 9, 2018 .

Top Dye Fabric, Non-Fading & Vivid Colour


What makes top dye cloth so special when compared to regular piece dye or yarn dye cloth?

There are three types of dying processes:

1Piece dye - where pre-woven fabric is dyed

2. Yarn dye - where spun yarn is dyed a single color

3Top dye - where the worsted wool fiber is dyed and then color blended into top dye yarn

Top dye yarn creates complex color that reads like an oil painting. Many colors are working together to create a hue with depth and character. Top dye yarn is dyed to the very core of the fiber, so that the color will last (and stay vivid) for the life of the garment. This color does not fade with time.

Posted on February 26, 2018 .

All About Rain Coats

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How To Choose the Right Rain Coat Length:

There is not one traditional length, back in the day range from above the knee to the mid-calf and sometimes even to the ankle.

The most versatile coats are worn at about knee length.

Shorter Men:

An ankle-length coat can be overwhelming for a smaller frame while an above-the-knee coat will help elongate your legs.

Taller Men:

The opposite is true for taller men, who should avoid short coats that would only elongate the legs further. Trench coats reach just below the knee, or to the knee are best.

When to Wear or Not to Wear a Rain Coat?

It is appropriate with casual wear as well as business suits, and it is an ideal travel companion due to its moderate to light weight, water repellency, and versatility. Despite its manifold uses, the trench coat is not appropriate for formal evening wear such as black tie or white tie.

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Posted on February 23, 2018 .

Shoe Construction

Goodyear welt Construction

The welt, a long strip of sole leather, is sewn both to the edges of the upper and to the insole. The seam between the welt and the upper is hidden between the outsole and insole. This is the sturdiest, most laborious method of shoe construction that ensures the premium quality of the shoe. The Goodyear welted shoes can be easily resoled.


Norwegian Construction

Three seams are needed to complete this complex process. The first joins the upper to the insole, and the second joins the turned-out edge of the upper to the midsole. So obviously, in this process, the edging around the perimeter of the shoe and of the sole is not created by the welt, but by an actual midsole. Then the outsole is sewn to the latter, to create a single body. This complex, fascinating method, ideal for customers who want solid, sturdy footwear, makes the shoe highly waterproof.

Tubular Construction

Masciangelo has renewed this famous car shoe construction combining the convenience and look of the car shoe with the comfort of walking and city shoe.

The advantages of this construction made by Masciangelo are:

• the tubular construction with natural materials that give a high breathability and comfort

• the presence of a cavity in natural leather which protects the foot from the stress of walking

•  the leather combined with the rubber sole which operates as a thermal insulator, both in the summer and for the winter

Posted on February 7, 2018 .

The Ultimate Cashmere Guide

Cashmere is the general term for fibers and fabrics that are constructed from the fine under hair of the cashmere goat. 

Each animal grows a double fleece which is comprised of thick, coarse guard hairs that overlay a fine down insulating layer of hair. This unexpected source, on average, produces a mere 150 grams (0.33 pounds) of cashmere fibers annually per goat.
It takes 2-3 animals to produce a sweater, for example, and 5-6 animals to produce a jacket. 

The annual world production of cashmere hair is estimated to be 15,000 to 20,000 tons, and once the hairs are processed to eliminate everything but the under hair, the final yield is estimated to be a mere 6,500 tons.


The cashmere goat grows a thick, warm coat in the cooler seasons that is then molted in the Spring. The under hairs are only collected once a year during this Spring molting season.

The fibers can be collected using one of two methods:

1. Combing is done by hand

2. Shearing removes both the under hair and guard hair
layers at the same time

So why choose a suit or jacket made of Cashmere?

Cashmere is renowned for its luxuriously soft feel, incredible comfort and quality of the fibers.
Cashmere is very suitable for areas of changing climate and will keep you warm in the Winter and cool in the Summer without weighing you down. 

Posted on February 2, 2018 .

A Recap: Tiny Signs of a Well Crafted Suit

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It's easy for one to spot a well crafted suit but few know the construction of one. What lies in between the suit is just as important as what is visible.

Little white balls on the inside of your suit are actually a good thing. Some think that this is the fabric wearing out but it's actually the canvas poking through slightly. This means that your suit is well made and not glued/fused together.  

This is more likely to happen to a loose weave fabric, like a Glen check versus a tighter weave like a Super 150 but no need to worry this will never hurt your garment.

On the rare occasion this happens, here's how to remove them easily:

1. Pull the canvas away from the suit fabric (you'll be able to feel it with your fingers) 

2. The majority should go back into the suit

3. If there are any still visible gently remove by simply pulling off with your fingers

Posted on January 29, 2018 .

The Men’s Dress Shoe Hierarchy

From the most plain and simple shoes cut from a single piece of smooth leather, to intricately detailed shoes featuring fancy stitching, perforations, and edging, a man’s got a lot of options when it comes to dress shoes. The variety can really be a bit overwhelming, especially when it comes to knowing which is which and what shoes to wear with what get-ups.

So let’s break it down as simply as possible.

Below is a hierarchy of the common dress shoe styles, ranked from most dressy to least, what defines them as such, and a few outfit options with which they look best and pair most appropriately.

Wholecut or Cap-Toe Oxford

Characteristics: Oxfords that are either completely void of extra stitching, perforations, and other design elements, or darn near close. And what’s an oxford? Well first, contrary to popular belief, not all dress shoes are oxfords. On an oxford, the eyelet flaps do not sit unrestrained on top of the shoe. Instead, they’re stitched over where they meet the vamp (the leather that runs from the toe to the lacing flaps) and meet up with the vamp on the same plane.

A wholecut is a shoe with an upper that is cut and fashioned from one single piece of leather. Think of wholecuts as being sheets, and other pieced-together shoes as quilts.

Meanwhile, a simple cap oxford is a shoe with closed lacing, that has a line or two of stitching that accentuates the front of the shoe, giving the toe a bit of a capped look. Bottom line: These are the most simple, sleek dress shoes. Less is more. More… dressy.

What to wear it with: Tuxedos/evening wear; suits; blazer/sports coat with wool trousers; pressed, well-fitting cotton dress pants with a dress shirt and tie and/or sports coat/blazer.

Semi-Brogue Oxford



Characteristics: Originally used by those walking through marshy fields, these are the shoes with lots of holes and decorations (the holes used to help the muck and water drain out). Now they’re considered one of the dressiest shoes out there. Funny how times change.

Semi-brogue oxfords sport a cap-toe with perforations, pinked/serrated edges, layered leathers, and usually a medallion of perforations adorning the toe. They also come with closed lacing, and are thus still plenty sleek. Yet all that busyness with the design makes them less sober and more flashy.

What to wear it with: Suits; wool trousers with a blazer/sport coat; possibly dark wash jeans, depending on the color of the shoe

Wingtip Oxford



Characteristics: Like the semi-brogue oxford, only with the classic, unmistakeable “M” wing sweep at the toe (as seen from above by the wearer), which drops down and terminates about halfway back to the heel. Oxford-style lacing makes them much easier to dress up than their open-laced cousins.

What to wear it with: Suits, although some would argue against that; wool trousers; pressed cotton pants; dark wash denim and sports coat.

Plain or Cap-Toe Derby



Characteristics: Now we’re getting away from oxfords, and into their open-laced brothers: derbies. Whenever you picture a dress shoe, chances are you picture a relatively simple derby. Derby shoes, unlike oxfords, have the eyelet/lacing flaps sewn directly to the upper of the shoe, and are unrestrained by any sort of line of stitching across the tops of them. This is called open lacing, and this interruption in the silhouette makes them a little less sleek, and therefore, less dressy.

Some men’s style purists actually believe one should never wear derby shoes with a suit. I say horsefeathers. Most men wear derby shoes with suits, and 99% of the population either doesn’t notice, or doesn’t care. An oxford, with its closed lacing, may look a little better with a suit. But wearing a pair of well-polished, slim-soled dress derby shoes with a suit won’t cause the universe to collapse.

What to wear it with: Suits (yes really), especially those made of more casual fabrics like tweed, linen, or cotton; wool trousers; cotton trousers; jeans

Single Monk Straps



Characteristics: Instead of laces providing that cinch-down tension, this type of shoe is secured to the foot of the wearer by a single buckle and strap system. A little more fashion forward for sure, but what seemed like a trend certainly now appears to have cemented itself into accepted menswear for years to come. And yes, many purists would have these shoes a bit lower on this hierarchy, but monk straps can be super sleek. Especially the single monk variety, with the buckle and strap being positioned higher up the shoe, closer to the ankle.

What to wear it with: For some…suits, especially when wearing a suit without a tie; wool trousers; well-pressed cotton trousers; rumply chinos, sometimes, depending on the color/texture of the shoe uppers (say, if they’re suede); dark wash jeans.

Double Monk Straps



Characteristics: Like a single monk, with an extra buckle closer to the toe. Yes, these are basically a fashion forward, dress shoe version of velcro sneakers. And some of us absolutely still love them.

What to wear it with: Suits, for some, but that extra bit of flash is pushing it in some more conservative/sober environments; wool trousers; pressed cotton dress pants; dark denim.

Semi-Brogue Derby



Characteristics: Like a semi-brogue oxford, only with the derby specific “open” style of lacing/eyelet flaps. Along with those flaps, all the extra perforations and serrated edges make for a pretty busy shoe. There’s actually not many of these around.

What to wear it with: Wool trousers; cotton trousers; jeans; wearing them with a suit is a little iffy since there’s a lot of visual attention that ends up at your feet.

Longwing Derby



Characteristics: An open-laced shoe with a wingtip that doesn’t terminate midway down the side of the shoe, but instead wraps all the way to the back of the heel. They’re highly versatile, and that longer wing has an almost sporty, racing-stripe feel to it.

What to wear it with: Smart, casual wear of all kinds, especially if the shoes are suede; these also look great with summer fabric suits like seersucker or linen, if you happen to have them.

Suede Bucks


Characteristics: A plain toe derby-style shoe void of extra decoration/stitching/perforations that’s made from suede or nubuck (hence “bucks”).

What to wear it with: Summer suits and summery pants; if the color of suede is darker (and not the traditional white or off-white), then these can absolutely pull extra duty with cords, chinos, and jeans when it cools down; grey suede, believe it or not, is hugely versatile here, since you don’t have to worry about matching a belt color to it.


Posted on January 26, 2018 .